Tinplate printing, also referred to as tin packaging printing, is the process of applying decorative or informative designs, patterns, or labels onto tinplate surfaces used for making decorative tin boxes and containers. Tinplate is made of steel coated with a thin layer of tin, which is widely used in the packaging industry for various products such as confectionery, food, cosmetics, tobacco, and more. This essay outlines the key steps involved in tinplate printing, from design preparation to finishing touches, highlighting the intricate techniques and considerations unique to this craft.
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1. Preparing Printing Designs and Making Printing Plate
Before the printing process begins, meticulous attention is given to designing the artwork and creating the printing plate. This step lays the foundation for the visual aesthetic of the final product and requires careful consideration of colors, patterns, and branding elements.
2. Preprinting Tinplate Treatment
The tinplate surface undergoes a series of preparatory treatments to ensure optimal ink adhesion and print quality. Dust removal, degreasing, and the application of a primer are essential steps in this process, enhancing the surface's receptiveness to ink and promoting adhesion.
3. White Ink or White Coating
Depending on the desired effect, either white ink or white coating is applied to the tinplate surface. White ink allows for spot application, enabling tin color or transparent areas to show through, while white coating covers the entire tinplate panel, providing a uniform base for subsequent color printing.
4. CMYK or Pantone Color Printing
Using the principles of lithographic offset printing, tinplate printing employs the repelling properties of ink and water to transfer artwork and text onto the metal surface via a blanket. However, due to tinplate's unique physical and chemical properties, adjustments are made to accommodate its characteristics, including heat resistance, strong adhesion, impact resistance, and hardness. Tinplate printing shares fundamental principles with paper printing technology. It offers the versatility to print in CMYK or Pantone colors, tailored to specific requirements.
5. Drying
After printing, the ink undergoes drying or curing processes to ensure proper adhesion and durability. Heat-curing and UV curing are commonly employed methods, each offering advantages in terms of efficiency and effectiveness in drying the ink and forming a robust bond with the tinplate surface.
6. Varnishing
Once the ink is fully dried, additional finishing touches are applied to the tinplate sheets to enhance durability and aesthetic appeal. Clear varnishes are often used to provide a protective layer, offering scratch resistance and improving overall appearance. Additional treatments, such as matte or soft-touch finishes, can be applied to achieve specific textures or effects, further enhancing the visual and tactile experience of the final product.
Conclusion
In conclusion, tinplate printing is a meticulous and multifaceted process that seamlessly blends artistic creativity with scientific precision. From the meticulous preparation of printing designs to the application of protective varnishes, each step is carefully executed to ensure the production of vibrant, durable, and visually striking designs on tinplate surfaces. By understanding and mastering the intricacies of tinplate printing, craftsmen can transform ordinary metal surfaces into works of art that captivate and inspire.
I've stood on the side and admired them for a long time. I was, maybe still am, caught up in all the bells, whistles, chatter and smoke of modern trains. That being said it's time to acquire my first tinplate.
Any tips on what to look for, what to avoid would certainly be appreciated! Thanks!!
If it was me I would purchase the real deal prewar Lionel. The paint might not be perfect and it won't have all the bell whistles. But what you will have is a piece of American history and not a copy. You can't compare a reproduction piece with an original. Go for the real deal and when you hold it in your hand think back 100 years ago when America built the best products in world. Your reproduction MTH tinplate will say built in China. UGH.
I like the Commodore Vanderbilt sets from Lionel/MTH. They are smaller in size than the 260E's. The Blue Streak is very cool and a favorite of mine.
https://www.trains.com/ctt/new...-corp-tinplate-line/
These were sold as a set with the passenger cars. Trainz has an engine only for sale. I believe you could change out the coupler so it could pull freight cars or a non-streamlined passenger cars. You could shop around and find original blue streak cars on Ebay. The private car listing ends Christmas day so if it is still there you can pick it up for $359.36 or you could join their Private Car club for $11.00 per month, buy the train and then cancel the membership. I already have the train but I was tempted to buy another one at that price, change the coupler and pull freight cars. The sounds with the chuffing just adds to the cute factor. You will be hooked on tinplate for life. Please buy this now and remove the temptation.
Goto Youngson to know more.
https://www.trainz.com/product...ectId=
Scott Smith
Jeff,
I'm also a newbie on prewar Lionel. I decided to start somewhat easy buy collecting what I thought looked good to me and what ran and at a price I wanted to pay. My start is to buy at least one or 2 engines from each decade (or era) of Lionel. I'm looking for changes in technology and manufacturing that occurred during Lionel manufacturing history. I also hope to get some books on prewar Lionel that will help sort through the many choices.
I run tubular O gauge track so that's not a problem if I stay with O gauge locomotives. I have found switches can be a problem so sometimes I set up a temporary track without switches to run all of them. Other than running, I can display some history of Lionel to visitors.
Bob
While my tinplate interest is standard gauge and more recently AF wide gauge, I find the original non-restored pieces speak to me the most. They just have a sense of the history behind them. It is a nice balance to my main interest in scale O.
There is no right answer to this question as my AF set has been restored and it is truly gorgeous while my lowly #8 and four of the dozen or so cars are original. Both have a special place for me during the holidays and probably when I get a permanent train room for my scale 3 and 2 rail trains, I'll be sure to make room for a permanent tinplate layout.
My O tinplate is too all over the place to do much with. A few Lionel pieces in varying condition, some Bing, Dorfan, and early AF. Not enough of anything to make outside of the two Marx tin sets I have.
However, it does bring up a valid question. Have you considered Marx as a starter set? The lithography is excellent and I've always enjoyed the 3/16 items. Just another consideration.
I'm in the same boat Jeff. I would love to find a nice MTH tinplate set with PS3. I never gave it much thought until I started following a topic with @NJCJOE building his amazing layout. He ran a beautiful set at one point when he had his track layed down, plus if I remember right I noticed some fantastic items on shelves in the background. Since that time I have been keeping my eye out for something like that but no luck so far. At least that I am willing to pay for.
Brad
Once you go tinplate you will not go back. I like early electrics in O and Standard gauge. Parts are available. I only have and work on the electric loco’s. The O gauge are not that expensive as I pick up old junk stuff that needs work. Here are some photos of a 252 that I did in Lionel colors. I picked up a shell then a frame then a motor. The paint on the shell was bad and needed to be a repaint. Since repaints are not worth as much as original I decided to paint what I wanted. I like the 150 series as they are reasonable and these are easy to get them going again.????
I bought a W tender and replaced the drawbar with a postwar drawbar. Attached it to the frame with a 2-56 x 3/4" machine screw. Bolts under the frame and on both sides of the drawbar to keep the drawbar from flopping.
That allows me to use postwar locomotives like a 736 Berkshire to pull my 800/ series consists. I've attached a photo of the 736/W combination.
Go to shows to learn what speaks to you. At the most recent show I was at there was a complete Lionel O gauge set, pre- with 4-wheel cars, working, original set box, under $200. It spoke to me, and seemed a bargain to me to boot.
Before I could buy it, I was actually thrilled to see a circa 30-year-old buy it first. I'd rather him have it, since my boys of that age have little interest.
As a kid, I drooled over the original Madison cars in my Dad's old Lionel catalog. But when I see them at shows, either original or repro, the magic just isn't there anymore.
If you go to shows, between your heart and your wallet, you'll know what to buy.
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