There's a wide range of electric mountain bikes available these days. That means there&#;s a model out there for everyone, but searching for the right one can be overwhelming. Check out our helpful buying guide below where we breakdown the key differences between the top models and brands and how to choose the perfect eMTB.
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In the first section we'll break down all the basics ideas, key components, and riding style considerations you should keep in mind. And in the second section, we'll list our favorite brands and models so you can compare. Start scrolling to begin or use the menu buttons to navigate to the section you want to explore. Let's get started.
What is it?
Electric mountain bikes (also called eMTBs) are bikes equipped with compact motors that are powered by a rechargeable battery, giving riders an on-demand pedaling boost.
Why they're great
eMTBs have several advantages that supercharge your off-road adventures. The mighty motors take the sting out of steep hills so you can ride longer without running out of energy. Those extra watts also allow you to keep up with stronger riders on the trails or access remote areas that aren&#;t serviced by chairlifts or shuttle roads. More laps, more miles, less time, less effort.
All electric bikes are categorized into three classes depending on their top speed and power modes. It&#;s important to choose the right class to match your needs. Make sure to check the rules and regulations of your local trails to see if there are any restrictions on certain ebike classes.
Class 1: Pedal-assist up to 20 mph, no throttle
Class 1 eMTBs are allowed on the most trails and they're the most popular choice among serious riders. They're also what we recommend here at Summit Bicycles.
Class 2: Pedal-assist up to 20 mph, includes throttle mode
This type of eMTB also has a throttle for pedal-free riding, but in terms of trail performance these models can&#;t compete with the class 1 models being designed by top brands like Trek, Santa Cruz, Yeti, etc. Note: Summit Bicycles does not sell class 2 ebikes.
Class 3: Pedal-assist up to 28 mph, no throttle
Class 3 eMTBs feature motors that reach higher top speeds, but are prohibited on some trails, and typically better suited to wide open dirt roads than narrow, technical trails.
Position
When it comes to high performance eMTBs, mid-drive systems are the current standard. The motor&#;s central position in the bottom bracket preserves a natural center of gravity that distributes weight and climbs better than outdated rear hub motors. If you''re serious about trail riding, go with a mid drive motor.
For more information, please visit Future Electric Vehicles.
Watts
The eMTB motors&#; power output is measured in watts and limited to a maximum of 750W in the US. While more watts means the motor is capable of more speed, most high end eMTBs have settled around 250W as the sweet spot between having enough juice to easily get up the climbs and still feeling like a mountain bike and not an overpowered commuter bike.
Torque
Torque is a critical spec that determines performance on steep hills or while carrying heavy loads. An eMTB motor&#;s maximum torque can vary from 40 Nm to 80 Nm. If you&#;re looking for a model to help you fly up the hills, you&#;ll want higher torque. However, if you''re looking for more natural feeling assistance, you don''t need as much.
Modes
All eMTB motors have several levels of assistance you can toggle between. Some also come with a "walk" mode that slowly moves the bike forward, which comes in handy for steep hike a bike sections. A few motors even have intelligent modes that automatically adjust assistance based on the terrain you''re riding.
What is the point of an electric mountain bike?
Electric mountain bikes take the sting out of steep climbs so you can ride faster for longer. eMTBers can focus more on thrilling descents as well as keeping up with stronger riders.
Are electric mountain bikes better?
eMTBs are a great option for riders looking for assistance up the steepest climbs or who want a boost on their mountain adventures. eMTBs will cost and weigh more, but come with many advantages.
Do I need a full suspension ebike?
Not necessarily&#; hardtail ebikes are perfect for lighter terrain and use in urban environments. Full-suspension is recommended for rougher trails with large rocks, roots, and steep gradients.
How fast do electric mountain bikes go?
Class 1 and Class 2 eMTBs can reach a top speed of 20 mph whereas Class 3 ebikes max out at 28 mph.
What is the best electric mountain bike brand?
There are dozens of manufacturers out there, but some of the best eMTB brands are Trek, Santa Cruz, Yeti, Norco, and Pivot Cycles.
Are electric mountain bikes good on trails?
eMTBs perform great on trails and riders can choose between cross-country, trail, enduro, and downhill models to best match the terrain they ride.
What size eMTB do I need?
Every model is different, but generally riders 5&#;7&#; and below can ride a size S, 5&#;7&#;-5&#;11&#; for size M, 5&#;11&#;-6&#;2&#; for size L, and XL for heights over 6&#;2&#;. Come and visit an electric mountain bike shop to test ride a few options.
Are eMTBs reliable?
Modern eMTBs are very reliable. Some of the most dependable motors are produced by Bosch, Fauza, Yamaha, and Shimano.
Can you commute on an electric mountain bike?
Yes, eMTBs that are rated as cross-country models make for great daily commuters because of their comfortable geometry and lightweight hardtail design.
For more information, please visit 20 inch Off Road Electric Mountain Bike.
Until I was 18, I rode English bikes year round in Vermont except when snow depth made walking easier. After school I&#;d sling my rifle and take it on dirt roads into the hills to hunt. I&#;d take it camping, which entailed miles of gravel roads and mountain foot paths.
When I turned 73, I bought a Radrunner, partly for its apparent off-road capability. I had forgotten what I&#;d once known about bicycles. It handled very poorly on slippery stuff like sand, mud, or snow. On pavement, it was dangerously unstable. Bumps were torture. I was heavily dependent on the motor because it was as if I were too old for more than nominal pedaling.
It was so unstable that I often ran off an 18-foot road trying to make a u-turn. Remembering what I&#;d once known, I moved the seat back several inches by using a bent post and bracing it. The purpose was to better brace the weight of my upper body between the seat and the hand grips. I could now make u-turns on a 10-foot driveway.
There were two unexpected benefits. The first was seat comfort. I had used a suspension post, which made little difference. I could no longer use it, but I didn&#;t need it. Moving the seat back caused me to lean forward more. That lightened my weight on the seat by moving some of it forward to the pedals, where my legs could absorb bumps. What a difference!
The other benefit was that I could now pedal that one-speed bike up a grade like a steam locomotive. My legs no longer got tired. I&#;d ease off according to how hard I was breathing.
With a 12&#; speed square I found that my knee was now at 90 degrees when the pedal was at top dead center. With the original post, it must have been bent more sharply. When you try to pedal with a knee bent more than 90 degrees, muscles fight muscles. You accomplish less work, your muscles tire quickly, and it&#;s hard on the joint. (Lance Armstrong has advised that if an exercise is harming your knees, the best thing is to keep doing it but modify it so your knees don&#;t bend so far.)
Moving the seat back made me lean forward. That made bumps very hard on my wrists. The solution was a riser. If your bars are perhaps 8&#; higher than your seat, you can lean forward against them for stability without leaning heavily down on them. I have a bike with a front suspension. With the bars suitably high, it makes little difference to me if the suspension is locked.
There were few paved roads when the English bicycle evolved. Few owned cars, so it had to be durable, comfortable, and efficient enough for an average man to pedal 20 miles. You couldn&#;t haul it home in a car, so it had to be reliable.
I&#;ve aimed to make my e-bikes more like old-fashioned English bikes. Dutch bikes and e-bikes are a bit like that. The seating position allows grandparents to pedal where they&#;re going instead of driving. However, their bars tend to sweep way back for upright sitting. I believe it's better to lean forward a bit. Besides, swept back bars can put your hands more than two inches behind the steering axis, which can cause dangerous feedback between your body inertia and your steering. Before buying a Dutch bike, I&#;d want to be sure I could correct that with different bars.
I think Dutch e-bikes don&#;t have throttles. I like to disconnect pedal assist and control the motor with a half twist throttle. Motor torque is handy to get underway. I may not use it again until I start to tire on a hill. I could shift down, but if instead I add just a little motor power, I can maintain speed.
There aren&#;t many Dutch bike dealers in America. If they weren&#;t hard to get directly, I might have found one that suited me. If you just want reliable off-road transportation, maybe a Dutch e-bike would do it.
Questions to ask yourself to narrow the search:
What kind of terrain will I be riding? Road or off-road? I think you answered that with forestry trails? So next question
How rough are the trails?
Is it hilly or flat or a mixture?
If hilly and occasionally rough, an EMTB with mid drive motor would seem logical (Electric Mountain Bike) As they are designed for this and are rugged and comfortable.
What distance will you ride mostly? If under 30 miles then any bog standard battery will probably be fine. At the lower end of the EMTB market 500wh would be good enough. More if you are planning to do all day rides for instance. Likewise the power of any decent emtb will be enough. Most have a torque of 75 to 90nm. More than enough.
Do I need a step through or would traditional mens triangle frame be ok? Less choice if step through, but they do exist. Some EMTBs have quite low top tubes as well. Good Q for local bike shop.
Is it dry or wet or mixed where you ride? Mudguards would be good if wet but can always be purchased afterwards, as in, don't let lack of fenders deter you from the bikes.
Budget under $3K. It's not a bad budget at all. especially now as the covid mad panic buying has gone the other way. It's a buyers market to some extent.
So without knowing the answers to these Qs it's tricky obviously for me to recommend a good fit, but my hunch would be a fairly standard emtb with mid drive motor. Most these days are what is called full suspension that is, front forks suspension and a rear wheel suspension. Comfy on rough ground but a bit more complicated to set up. A hard tail as the name suggests just has front suspension. These are also valid especially if you are only doing short rides that are not too rough. Plus are cheaper generally as good suspension costs $$$$
It's a question then of use, longer rides on hilly rough ground suit full suspension emtbs etc. But it can be personal choice/taste as well and depends also on your experience riding ordinary bikes - if you were a mountain biker then this an easy choice I'd say. If not, then definitely test ride (should anyway).
At under $ most of the main emtb bike brands that local shops should carry; Giant, Cannondale, Trek and Specialized should have what are called entry level emtbs at this price - I think - plus there are a LOT of discounted bikes on sale right now. Other reputable brands bike shops near you might carry are Cube, Orbea, Kona and Marin. All are well established and make good bikes.
Suggest with the answers to these questions next you put your detective hat on and head out to your local bike shops. See what brands they stock, how the shop staff feel, welcoming or not - plus no harm doing some online checking for customer reviews etc. And use this to narrow the choices down.
I'm less sure about direct to consumer bikes that you can order where you live. I'm not against them and they do have great deals. But it can be Wild West and you are on your own sometimes. The one that did come to mind because it's a US company, and lower budget and because I remember the great reviews this model got when it came out, is the Aventon Ramblas EMTB. Think it's under $3K and very well reviewed. Here's a link
I also like the Yamaha one recommended above and if you can get a bargain id say go for that. Yamaha ARE withdrawing their ebike sales from the US but Yamaha dealers will remain obviously selling motorbikes and outboard engines and what have you and they have said that all warranties for existing customers will be honoured. Plus Yamaha motors have a great reliability reputation and are (apparently) easily repaired. Giant also use Yamaha motors.
Finally a quick note on that - warranties - this is why people are suggesting you find a local dealer, ebike motors and batteries are expensive and they can fail. It's important to have a reputable brand who has a strong reputation for motor replacement under warranty. The ones I mentioned above all seem to have that. And I know first hand that Specialized are excellent. Usually if you develop a fault, you take the bike back to the bike shop you bought it at and they, on your behalf, contact the brand who (should) replace the part without quibble. If direct to consumer the same process (should) occur, but just check the reputation of the direct to consumer brand as there are a lot of new companies out there and it's easier to get burned plus you can't just nip into town and rant at the bike shop owner if there's a problem!
Good luck on the hunt! Over and Out.