Having your vehicle ceramic coated is a big decision. Between choosing the right number of years for you, the type of coating, what areas to get coated, and who to apply the coating can all be confusing. However, no matter your answer to any of the above questions, the below questions will help you get a better idea of what will be done to your car and how well it will be done.
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What kind of prep work is included with the coating?
Preparation is key when applying a ceramic coating and is usually what takes the most time. When you ask your detailer what exactly is included with the ceramic coating they should tell you that a hand wash, clay bar decon, iron decon, and an IPA wipe or paint prep comes with ALL coatings. This is the standard prep work that is required for any ceramic coating applied to your car&#;s paint.
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You should also find out if paint correction is included or charged as a case-by-case scenario. If paint correction isn&#;t included, you should get a quote for it. You may also want to ask about what preparation goes into wheel coatings, trim coatings, and glass coatings if you&#;re detailer is installing them.
Your wash and waterless wash towels would work great with the multible wash media method.
When it's under the freezing point I don't wash the cars at all. If we get a little warm weather conditions I wash as usually.
Yes I use a foamcannon for the prewash foam.
Yes both products don't clogg your coatings water behavior and self cleaning ability from it. There is others that don't do that either these are 2 popular ones. It's the EcH2O QD dilution and don't know which is the QD dilution of N-914. Both Gyeon Foam and Gyeon Bathe is great products to maintain your coating. I give the nod to Carpro Reset car soap for the extra cleaning ability from it vs Bathe. The most important that I think of when haveing a very hydrophobic protection and want to maintain that. Is to use products that don't degrade this behavior by leaving less hydrophobic caractics behind over time. Some products you don't notice it after a wash or wipe down with. But in the longrun it can be building up with glossenhancers or other protection technology that clogging your coatings behavior rather than taken it off. And this I think of with and product. If I use a sealant that I really like the looks from. Then for an example I use a car soap that leaves protection and glossenhancers that degrade this look from the sealant. So not only the hydrophobic caractics of your protection but the whole line of products that you use are something that you like in what it gives you. That's why I like maintance products like car soap that leaves nothing behind as in protection and glossenhancers or if I where to use a drying aid. The drying aid for me personally messes to much with my drying towels ability to effectively soak up water. And IMO if you have a drying towel that marring your paint. Is not a drying towel I would ever use on the paint. I can see a benefit with a drying aid when doing WW or RW as you often don't get a clean surface when you are to dry the vehical and the lubrication from it is a benefit then. But when you dry a vehical that's washed traditional with a wash media and rinsed off the vehical should be so clean so a drying aid is not needed. And the extra time and what you get more out of it when you want something extra like a topper or spray wax or QD I feel is much more worth it to do after the drying on a dry paint. Personal preferences this and nothing wrong with useing a drying aid just not for me personally.
Washing when it goes down under the freezing point is much of how you have access to a garage and if you are able to be useing water those days that it's over the freezing point. In either way if I should be washing the vehical in an environment where you have road salt on the roads so you get a very dirty vehical. I would need to be haveing access to a PW or a hose with very good water pressure from it. To get a thorough prerinse before doing the contact wash. Either at home or at a coin-op wash bay and do the RW or bucket wash there or drive home and do it. You have also the option with something like the WORX Hydroshot or Ryobi cordless PW to use at home or at a place near if possible if you don't want to get the water on the driveway. To get off as much loose dirt as possible. I would also look at something like the iK12 Foamer to apply the prewash foam with. Or a pump pressure spray bottle and use a pretreatment that aid to getting the most dirt off before the contact wash. Or if you have a touchless car wash near you that you can chose a program with undercarriage rinse and that you don't get their protection and glossenhancers if possible. Can be that you are able to be doing a contact wash after this too. I always tries to get the car as clean as possible before I touch wash it which ever time of the year it is.
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