Anyone Ever Bought a wire edm from China?

Here is the reality as I've experienced it.
The high end Charmilles machines I have used, broke down too, and when they did the cost to fix them was nuts.
They were bought new (I was an employee at the time so not my circus, not my monkeys)
I remember a monitor in particular costing in the 8 grand neighbourhood, but other things were just as nuts.
We called the phenomenon "Swiss Rape" at the time.

I bought the Sodick (1996 model so about the same vintage) in 2008 and although it was refurbished by a reputable and knowledgeable company (EDM Network in Illinois) it was tired and crapped out quite often.
Prices were FAR more reasonable and I replaced the hard drive, the W axis board, the powder clutch, the conductivity probe the pinch rollers, the lower drive bearings, the discharge cables and a bunch of other stuff...not all of them normal consumables.

I traded in the Sodick for a brand new CHMER in 2011 and I've had very few problems with it, even though it's now about as old as the Sodick was when I bought it.
The problems have been nuisances...cheapo Chinese air hoses that decomposed and split after about 8 years, swivel couplings for high pressure water to the upper head that wore out after a year, knobs with flash on them from the crappy molds they were made in that had to be dismounted from the machine and filed smooth so I wouldn't cut myself on them.

But even though it's a Taiwanese machine, it's built like a tank, but it's also very basic...no collision detection sensors for example, so if you drop a slug wrong, it will beat the crap out of the machine and won't stop for anything.

So I too, have a Chinese (well, Taiwanese) machine.
It's been good to me...better than the Japanese machine and better than the Swiss machine I was around when I was an employee.

But you will have troubles with whatever you buy IMO...sooner or later they will stop working.
Service is key...you MUST have a reliable way to solve your problem when the screen stays black as you try to power it up, unless it's a hobby and you don't have to care.

You may take your chances however you prefer...I did when I bought every single machine in my stable, whether it was new or used, domestic or foreign.

Some have shitty luck with very expensive gear...look at the dismal history of DMG machines in recent years...absolutely atrocious service so far as I can tell from the stories I hear.
High end, premium priced machines, and still down for months while those arrogant cocksuckers from DMG never do get their thumbs out of their asses and fix the fuckers.

There are enough of those kinds of stories around that I would never take a chance on a DMG machine...no matter how good the deal.
I would feel that way even though I've never owned one and never had personal experience of one and the old manual Deckel machines that the company was founded on were absolutely delightful machines to run...beautifully made and gorgeous pieces of art to be proud of if you could afford to have one.

You may get lucky...you may be thrilled with what you buy from China...I am very happy with my cheapo Taiwanese machine, and I've put a ton of work through it and made good coin.
But EDM Network stands behind it, and I had history with them before I splashed the cash so I felt it to be a worthwhile gamble and I turned out to be right...thank God!

Greasy reassurances from some Fly by Night importer with a PO box office address and no inventory would worry me...every one of the machines I was ever around broke eventually in some way...the service was crucial.

IMO shitty cheapo bearings will die before good ones will on average, so if your machine is built with shitty bearings to make a price point, the odds are against you, and if you can't even source replacements you're fucked.

So buy as the mood moves you...you are taking a gamble no matter what you pick.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com

Hi again Henryff:Here is the reality as I've experienced it.The high end Charmilles machines I have used, broke down too, and when they did the cost to fix them was nuts.They were bought new (I was an employee at the time so not my circus, not my monkeys)I remember a monitor in particular costing in the 8 grand neighbourhood, but other things were just as nuts.We called the phenomenon "Swiss Rape" at the time.I bought the Sodick (1996 model so about the same vintage) in 2008 and although it was refurbished by a reputable and knowledgeable company (EDM Network in Illinois) it was tired and crapped out quite often.Prices were FAR more reasonable and I replaced the hard drive, the W axis board, the powder clutch, the conductivity probe the pinch rollers, the lower drive bearings, the discharge cables and a bunch of other stuff...not all of them normal consumables.I traded in the Sodick for a brand new CHMER in 2011 and I've had very few problems with it, even though it's now about as old as the Sodick was when I bought it.The problems have been nuisances...cheapo Chinese air hoses that decomposed and split after about 8 years, swivel couplings for high pressure water to the upper head that wore out after a year, knobs with flash on them from the crappy molds they were made in that had to be dismounted from the machine and filed smooth so I wouldn't cut myself on them.But even though it's a Taiwanese machine, it's built like a tank, but it's also very basic...no collision detection sensors for example, so if you drop a slug wrong, it will beat the crap out of the machine and won't stop for anything.So I too, have a Chinese (well, Taiwanese) machine.It's been good to me...better than the Japanese machine and better than the Swiss machine I was around when I was an employee.But you will have troubles with whatever you buy IMO...sooner or later they will stop working.Service is key...you MUST have a reliable way to solve your problem when the screen stays black as you try to power it up, unless it's a hobby and you don't have to care.You may take your chances however you prefer...I did when I bought every single machine in my stable, whether it was new or used, domestic or foreign.Some have shitty luck with very expensive gear...look at the dismal history of DMG machines in recent years...absolutely atrocious service so far as I can tell from the stories I hear.High end, premium priced machines, and still down for months while those arrogant cocksuckers from DMG never do get their thumbs out of their asses and fix the fuckers.There are enough of those kinds of stories around that I would never take a chance on a DMG machine...no matter how good the deal.I would feel that way even though I've never owned one and never had personal experience of one and the old manual Deckel machines that the company was founded on were absolutely delightful machines to run...beautifully made and gorgeous pieces of art to be proud of if you could afford to have one.You may get lucky...you may be thrilled with what you buy from China...I am very happy with my cheapo Taiwanese machine, and I've put a ton of work through it and made good coin.But EDM Network stands behind it, and I had history with them before I splashed the cash so I felt it to be a worthwhile gamble and I turned out to be right...thank God!Greasy reassurances from some Fly by Night importer with a PO box office address and no inventory would worry me...every one of the machines I was ever around broke eventually in some way...the service was crucial.IMO shitty cheapo bearings will die before good ones will on average, so if your machine is built with shitty bearings to make a price point, the odds are against you, and if you can't even source replacements you're fucked.So buy as the mood moves you...you are taking a gamble no matter what you pick.CheersMarcus

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Whether at home or in the workplace, few things are as confusing as electric cords and the plugs, receptacles, and connectors that come with them. Meanwhile, you need the right plug and socket to get any electric device to work correctly and safely. 

So what are you to do? Fortunately, the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) took matters into its own hands to standardize the manufacture and use of different electrical configurations. Hence, you only need to know the NEMA’s general approach to understand how your plugs and receptacles match each other. In short, you have to learn the NEMA chart.

What is The NEMA Chart?

The NEMA organization represents the manufacturers of electrical and imaging products in North America. It comprises over 400 companies, with notable members such as Philips and General Motors. 

As part of the NEMA’s efforts to standardize electrical configurations, the NEMA chart was introduced.

This chart is a tabular representation of the different plugs and receptacles according to the NEMA standards, as illustrated below.

The chart above displays the variety of plugs and receptacles for 125ac and 250Vac single-phase locking systems used in countries like the US, Mexico, and Canada. It’s the typical system used in most residential settings. 

Apart from these, some of the receptacles in the chart feature twist locks. These products allow you to lock in once they are in the mating position. This locking system is vital in situations where connections will be subject to vibrations or pressure. It’s also used to prevent cords in unnatural positions from accidental unplugging. 

The chart below features non-locking plugs and receptacles. Other electrical configurations use the ANSI/NEMA WD 6 standard.

Such standards apply to the higher voltage, 3 phase applications, and they typically serve specific uses like ship-to-shore connections.

Distinguishing The Connectors, Plugs, and Receptacles

Much of the confusion around electrical products are centered around the four elements listed below.

• Receptacle - This is a female wiring device, usually flange-mounted, used to supply electricity, and serves as an outlet. It has an insulated outer surface and backward placed conducting elements. When it has nothing plugged into it, the receptacle usually is live, which means that they are directly wired to the power source. 
• Plug - This is a male wiring device mostly mounted on a cord. Unlike the receptacle, the conductive pins of the plug are outward pointing and protruded. Hence, it must never be live or connected to a power source while not in use. That explains why plugs are always dead until plugged into a power outlet. 
• Connector - It’s a female wiring device mounted on a cord. Like the receptacle, the conducting parts of the connector are also out of sight. It is also wired to a power source and is live even when it is idle. 
• Inlet - It's a box-mounted wiring device that’s conductive surfaces are extended and exposed. It is dead when the mating device is out of use and should never be live wired.

Understanding NEMA Nomenclature

The NEMA nomenclature is the code of alphabets and numbers used to denote the configuration of a specific electric product. It applies to receptacles, represented by R, and plugs by P, ranging from 1-15 to 18-60. 

As you might have guessed, the lower numbers NEMA 1-15P are domestic sizes, whereas higher numbers like NEMA 18-60R are high-voltage industrial sizes. 

Also, the first number indicates the voltage, while the second shows the amperage. Some products like NEMA L1-15R have L in front of the first voltage indicating the number to show whether the product is locking or non-locking. In this case, NEMA L1-15 is a locking 125V and 15A, two-prong receptacle. 

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The NEMA connector’s blades are recognized within the dimensional standard like this: 

“G” - indicates the grounding conductor

“W” - indicates the (grounded) neutral conductor

“X, Y, Z” - indicates the “hot” line conductors

Connectors with single-phase connectors have only one terminal denoted as 'X" or two terminals,' X" and 'Y." Whereas three-phase connectors usually employ 'X,' 'Y,' and 'Z.'

Color Codes

Aside from these, some electrical products also have color codes. However, these colors do not represent the voltage class or power system of the device. That’s because the NEMA standards do not determine these colors. 

Instead, the color-coding of a receptacle may be determined by a manufacturer or customer. In which case, colors like ivory, black, grey, or brown may help blend the cords and wiring of a building with the decor. 

Nevertheless, some industries rely on color to identify certain applications, not according to standards or rules.

Conclusion

The NEMA chart and ratings were designed to enable electrical enclosures to operate safely while ensuring optimal functioning and compatibility of electrical products. Assuming you can understand the naming and what each number and letter means, you can know the best way to use your electrical products. 

This applies to any place you go and use electrical products. But bear in mind that knowing isn't enough. It would be best to exercise the necessary precautions when dealing with electricity, especially when traveling abroad. When in doubt, ask questions and avoid making assumptions to prevent damage to life and properties.

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