If you&#;ve ever built a wooden structure, you probably know all about frames. These rigid members impart support and shape to traditional structures. The heavy-duty steel body of a container, however, offers adequate support and does not require interior framing. Instead, shipping container frames help you attach drywall, spray foam insulation, or make extra doors and windows.
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The application isn&#;t the only thing that changes when you apply frames to container walls; the process also varies. Below, we&#;ll walk you through how to attach frames to shipping containers, the different types available, and the various purposes they serve.
You can add framing to your container by selecting a suitable design and installation method.
Consider an appropriate design, and secure the base plate to the floor and ceiling with angle brackets. Refer to the steps below if you're planning on adding frames to your shipping container homes yourself.
First, you need to determine which material you're using - wood, steel, or aluminum framing. We've covered the advantages and disadvantages of each material for internal framing in the subsequent section.
Here you'll probably need professional help. You will also have to determine a layout that appropriately houses the electrical fixtures, accessories, plumbing lines, and other outlets.
If you're using frames to add insulation, you'll need suitable segments that close all underlying air gaps. Building codes and standards can help you determine the size and width of frames that you'll require.
Securing the frames in their positions can be a bit tricky. If you attach the frame directly to the shipping container wall using nails and screws, it may cause leakages.
Such gaps can affect the wind and water-tight capabilities of a container, leading to condensation and moisture build-up.
As a preventative measure, you should make sure there is at least a 1" gap between the frame and the walls.
Start by placing the frame in an accurate position. Use pocket-hole joinery or toe-nailing to secure the vertical beams with the horizontal base plate. Fix the horizontal ceiling beam with the vertical beams using hurricane ties. You'll have a single assembly ready for installation in your container office or home.
Secure the base of the framing to the floor using screws. Ensure that you appropriately space them out to avoid any unwanted movement. Use angle brackets or D-ring tie-downs to secure the top section of the framing. The frame should now be ready for use.
You can either use wood or metal for framing your shipping container home. Metal framing can come in either steel or aluminum.
Each type offers its unique set of pros and cons that make it suitable for specific applications.
Wood is one of the most widely used materials for framing, which is why you're likely to find more resources and help for building wooden frames.
Advantages of Wood
Problems with Wood
While some prefer steel to build homes, others recommend using aluminum to create frames of ideal thickness. Below are a few factors to consider while using metal framing for your container home.
Advantages of Metal
Problems with Metal
Exterior frames for accommodating windows and facades on a commercial shipping container project
Watch how this person used aluminum frames to his advantage in his shipping container home.
Shipping container frames can help you add insulated walls, fill air gaps, and make design modifications to your structure. Depending on your level of comfort and expertise, you can select wooden or metal framing.
Because framing requires immense labor and skills, it is always best to consult an expert before modifying your shipping container building.
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Shipping containers may require insulation, depending on your location. The metal structure doesn&#;t contain heat very well and easily allows cold in.
Although you can screw into a container's wall, drilling can cause leakages. Such gaps can affect the container's wind and water-tight abilities.
Framing the shipping container was an interesting process. Unlike normal framing this was completely non structural (except for the section supporting the skylight).
We also didn&#;t want to penetrate the outside of the container or weld tabs to the walls which would have damaged the paint on the exterior.
We needed to figure out a way to maximise space and provide enough fixing/support for the wall lining (in my case 9mm plywood).
We chose to use treated kiln dried timber as a precaution against moisture damage. The risk of water damage due to condensation is low (see how to insulate a shipping container) but given the minor additional costs for treated timber it seemed worth it.
We also used a mix of 4×2 and 3×2 but given the way the 3×2 was buckling I would recommend using 4×2 only.
Given this is non structural, the method we went for was to create two standing walls then brace them across the top with ceiling joists. Basically, if we were to remove the ceiling joists the two walls would fall in on each other. We screwed a bottom plate to the Plywood floor to keep everything in place.
As the walls on a container are built for transporting goods they aren&#;t actually square&#;
This created a few difficult problems we needed to solve and resulted in a few air gaps between the timber and container walls.
You are better off to create a square wall at the cost of maximising every last mm in my opinion. I would recommend running a string line from the most inward point and working from there.
In areas with a gap larger than 5mm we packed it with off-cuts of polystyrene, the smaller ones we filled with foam or lined the outer edge of the timber with Malthoid tape.
Another consideration when framing the container is the ability for the timber to sweat next to the steel (as a result of the condensation). To help prevent this problem a thermal break is used to create space between the timber and steel.
Mathoid tape was used on all bare timber surfaces which rubbed up against the steel walls.
Again this was another precaution but one which I believe is worth the extra effort.
Once everything is in place it&#;s time to go to town nogging. Given we were using 9mm ply we decided to go for 2 rows through the middle and 1 across the top.
Again, you&#;re in the unique situation of it being non structural and it&#;s just whatever is required to fix your lining to the wall.
One thing I thought of later down the track was nogging it so that I could fix all the ply sheets horizontally. There&#;s no real reason for this other than it might have looked a little more intriguing at the end.
Should I do it all again (which hopefully I will!) I would lie the frames down flat on a level surface and put them all together then stand them up and fix them to the container.
Not having many good reference points and essentially making it up as I went along meant I could have avoided a lot of hassle and back and forth had I been able to make it beautiful offsite then just stand it up inside the container. This is how it&#;s done in the industry anyway so probably something to keep in mind.
It also means you could create perfect gaps for the phase 2 of insulation saving time during that process too.
If you found this helpful and would like to learn more, I&#;m currently developing a course outlining all of my key learnings from converting a shipping container into a tiny house. Click here to find out more.
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