Floor Truss Buying Guide

06 Aug.,2024

 

Floor Truss Buying Guide

If you are starting a new construction project, you may be wondering what the best option for your floor system will be: floor trusses, I-joists, or dimensional lumber floor joists. Each type has its own strengths and limitations. Continue reading this buying guide for some guidance on what may work best for your project.

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If you are starting a new construction project, you may be wondering what the best option for your floor system will be: floor trusses, I-joists, or dimensional lumber floor joists. Each type has its own strengths and limitations. Continue reading this buying guide for some guidance on what may work best for your project.

Floor trusses can span farther between bearing points than I-joists, allowing for larger open rooms. This also reduces the need and cost for extra bearing posts, beams, and footings.

Floor trusses have built-in openings, which can be used to install HVAC ductwork, plumbing lines, and electrical wiring.

Custom-built floor trusses allow building designers to add extra loading for in-floor heat, heavy tile floors, heavy kitchen islands, quartz countertops, and high-traffic areas. I-joists are limited when it comes to accommodating extra loading.

Floor trusses offer four different bearing conditions for a wider variety of uses: bottom chord bearing, bottom chord bearing trimmable ends, top chord bearing, and mid-block bearing are all available. The multiple bearing conditions make matching existing floor heights much easier when using floor trusses. I-joists offer only one bearing condition.

Why Choose Floor Trusses?

&#; Floor trusses can span farther between bearing points than I-joists, allowing for larger, more open rooms. This also reduces the need and cost for extra bearing posts, beams, and footings.

&#; Floor trusses have an open web pattern and can include built-in openings, which can be used to install HVAC ductwork, plumbing lines, and electrical wiring.

&#; Custom-built floor trusses allow building designers to add extra loading for in-floor heat, heavy tile floors, heavy kitchen islands, quartz countertops, and high-traffic areas. I-joists are limited when it comes to accommodating extra loading.

&#; Floor trusses offer four different bearing conditions for a wider variety of uses: bottom chord bearing, bottom chord bearing trimmable ends, top chord bearing, and mid-block bearing are all available. I-joists and dimensional lumber offer only one bottom chord bearing condition.

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Duct Chart

When it comes to installing plumbing, wiring, and ductwork, the setup of a truss (especially an open-web truss) makes it relatively simple to get the job done. In contrast, I-joists are subject to building code restrictions that make it much harder to run wiring, ductwork, and pipes through them. For example, there are some restrictions as to how big of a hole can be drilled or cut into an I-joist. This can limit the size and placement of the ductwork and pipes.

Ductwork is usually installed under I-joists, requiring dropped ceilings or boxed soffits if the basement is to be finished. This in turn requires 9-foot-high basement walls to allow for an 8-foot finished ceiling. Using floor trusses allows you to utilize 8-foot basement walls, as the ductwork is installed within the openings of the floor truss. Additionally, having the mechanicals and ductwork hidden within the web openings of the floor truss allows for the easy installation of drywall to the bottom chord of the floor truss to finish off a ceiling.

Click to view full chart

When it comes to installing plumbing, wiring, and ductwork, the setup of a truss (especially an open-web truss) makes it relatively simple to get the job done. In contrast, I-joists are subject to building code restrictions that make it much harder to run wiring, ductwork, and pipes through them. For example, there are some restrictions as to how big of a hole can be drilled or cut into an I-joist. This can limit the size and placement of the ductwork and pipes.Ductwork is usually installed under I-joists, requiring dropped ceilings or boxed soffits if the basement is to be finished. This in turn requires 9-foot-high basement walls to allow for an 8-foot finished ceiling. Using floor trusses allows you to utilize 8-foot basement walls, as the ductwork is installed within the openings of the floor truss. Additionally, having the mechanicals and ductwork hidden within the web openings of the floor truss allows for the easy installation of drywall to the bottom chord of the floor truss to finish off a ceiling.

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Money no object: Best floor joist system

Growing up I remember the good old days of solid wood floor joists. I then remember the first times I got to see the truss-style of floor joists and then the engineered &#;I&#; joists (stiles & webbing). I&#;ve often wondered about which were better liked from a quality-build frame of reference and not which is more quickly nailed into place by day laborers.

A couple of years ago I though that truss-style joists would be better as they typically had large openings already available between their top/bottom plates and these openings could be readily used for hiding mechanicals, but then someone said they tend to &#;sag&#; over time. I took this comment with a grain of salt.

My current home uses Boise-Cascade I-Joists and they seem fine when used properly (mine were abused), but the aspect of having to spend considerable labor-time to cut openings into the webbing often was not accepted practice and mechanicals were simply run 6-14&#; below the joists and wasted valuable basement headroom.

So, I wonder what the non-business (aka personal) preference is for the type/style of floor joist is and why?

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