Installing a solar energy system can be a challenging task. A home solar panel installation will include up to or more than a thousand parts so gathering the right component parts can take a lot of time researching what each part is and what each part does. One critical component of your solar energy system is the solar racking, otherwise known as solar panel mounts. The solar rack is the hardware under the solar module that secures the panel to a surface (roof, ground, pole) in the panel installation. If you don't get this right, then forget it-you are just buying yourself years of trouble. In this learning article, we will focus on how to select the proper solar racking.
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The first step in evaluating which solar rack to use, you must first evaluate the space available for the home solar panels. Either on the roof, on the ground or on a pole, you need to know the square footage before you begin the selection process. Measure the length and width of the surface on which you intend to place the solar panels. And if you are installing the solar energy system on the roof of your home, remember you are only measuring that portion of the roof with a southern exposure (and not shaded by a 70 year old oak tree). You will have to subtract that portion of the roof on which there are any obstructions such as chimneys, skylights and vents. Consult with local and state building, electrical and zoning codes to make sure that you can comply with applicable laws and ordinances. Once you have the measurements, draw a diagram so that you can reference it later.
Related: Installing A Solar Energy System Yourself: Knowing What to Buy
Next we will need to evaluate the length and width of the solar module you will be using. Each home solar panel has its own specific measurement so consult the panel's specification sheet for the solar modules you are considering. Once you have the dimensions, write the information on a sheet of paper so that you can determine the rail length you will need for installation.
For our example, we will use one of the leading solar modules that we sell at SolarTown, which has a width of 39.4 inches and a length of 65 inches. For the width, we will round up to 40 inches per module. We are assuming for this installation that the panels will be installed side-by-side in a portrait orientation. As most installers recommend leaving a small space between panels, we will round up the length of the panels to 66 inches.
The next step then is to calculate the total number of solar modules we want to mount at our site. Remember that there are different solar mounts used for each application: flush mounting for roofs, solar pole mounts, and solar ground mounts.
In our example, let's say that we want to get the most number of panels on our home. If the total length of our surface is 30ft (360 inches) left-to-right and 20ft (240 inches) top-to-bottom, we need to confirm how much unobstructed space is available for the panels we want to install. And you do not want to install the solar array right up to the edge of the roof. For our example, we will assume that the panels are installed up to 12 inches from the edge, as may be required by local building codes, and that there are no obstructions on the roof.
The next thing is to divide the top-to-bottom length of the roof by the long edge of the panels to come up with how many rows will fit in the space available. We are assuming that the panels are going up in a portrait orientation. Divide 216 inches, which is the top-to-bottom length of the roof minus the 12 inch border on each side, by the long-edge of each panel and you get 3.3 panels -obviously you cannot cut a panel so you can get three rows on your roof.
Do the same calculation for the number of panels across the width of the roof (336 inches ÷ 40 inch panels = 8 panels or 8 columns across the horizontal width of the roof. Altogether, you can get 3 rows and 8 columns or 24 panels on the roof in a portrait layout with 12" of room on each side of the array.
At this point of the installation, you are now ready to pick the rails. You have already figured out where the roof supports are and that your roof can hold the added weight of the panels. The standard spacing for roofing rafters is 16 inches and standoffs, which are posts bolted to the roof rafters, are spaced up to 48 inches. If the structure of your roof is non-standard, you may want to talk with an engineer.
To pick the right rail, we need to know the combined width of the panels in a portrait configuration. We are going to simplify this example. Let's assume that that you want to install four panels across in a portrait configuration. The combined width of these panels, using the dimensions that we gave earlier, is four times 40 inches, or 160 inches. We will need a rail long enough to cover the 160 inches and remember that each module needs to be attached to two rails.
For rails, it is always better to have a longer rail compared to a shorter rail so in this application anything equal to or greater than 160 inches will be fine. You want to make sure that the rails extend beyond the measurement of the panels. You can cut the rails to size after you have installed the rails. You can peruse the lengths of the rails that SolarTown has available in the solar racking section of the store. One of the leading manufacturers, Unirac, manufactures a UniRac Rail 168 inch standard rail. There will be eight inches of extra railing, which we can cut for a perfect fitting.
Once you've determined how many panels your site can handle, and the rails necessary to hold the panels, the last step is choosing the clamps that secure the modules to the frame. Most modules are between 1.00" - 2.00" thick. Clamps come in varying sizes and the devil is in the details! Review the mechanical dimensions on your module spec sheet and note the thickness of the panel. Then select an end-clamp and mid clamp or a cap strip to hold the panels down.
End clamps install on the outer edges of the array, and mid clamps install between columns of panels. A cap strip is an alternative that functions as a clamp, but gives a sleeker look for the array as a unit. Cap strips come in lengths to match the rails you've chosen. Top-mount clamps are the most common attachment method, and support modules between .9" and just over 2.0". Know the thickness of your modules and pick the corresponding end clamps, mid clamps or cap strips for the finishing part of the install. SolarTown offers all the necessary clamps or cap strips to support your installation.
The installation of your solar energy system for your home is going to take 1 or 2 days and you will enjoy solar energy for 25 years or more. But you need to put in the time to design your system, and the solar racking is a critical component of your system.
An important decision that every individual opting for a rooftop solar system has to make is about the type of solar panel mounting structure they want to opt for. As the name suggests, the mounting structure is that part of the solar module on which solar panels are placed and which holds the panels to a surface. Thus, it is the mounting structure that decides how the solar panels are installed on the rooftop, their angle of installation, external appearance, and also the efficiency, durability, and lifetime of the solar module. In some cases, innovative solar mounting structures made using 3D modeling and designing help minimize shading losses due to external objects like buildings and trees.
Generally, the things that a user has to decide on when selecting a solar structure are:
The type of mounting, and
The material of the solar structure
Types of mounting
There are various ways in which solar panels can be mounted. Every solar panel installation is unique and needs personalized designing of the structure to best suit the location and maximize the output. Some of the common types of mounting are:
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Ground-mounting generally refers to solar panel mounts that are installed on flat surfaces. More specifically, it can be a solar structure mounted on flat ground or a flat rooftop/terrace.
Rooftop/terrace mounting: It is the preferred choice for most domestic users as it can be installed in most houses without occupying any extra space. There are two ways of attaching the mounting structure to the rooftop - clamp, and ballast. The attachment should be such that it provides sufficient support to the mounting structure without damaging the roof.
In clamping, holes are drilled in the roof and the mounting structure is fixed with the use of screws. Thus, clamping penetrates the roof, and thus problems like water percolation down the ceiling, rusting of the mounting structure, etc can occur.
Ballast blocks are heavy concrete blocks that are placed on a rooftop and which hold the solar mounting structure in place. The advantage of using ballast blocks is that the roof remains intact and all the drilling and fastening is done on the block. Thus ballast blocks maintain the strength of the roof and eliminate issues of moist ceilings and are generally more sturdy.
Ground-mounting: While the first choice for the place of installation of solar panels for domestic purposes is the rooftop, not all rooftops are ideal for solar panel installation. In such cases, users can go for a ground-mounted solar system. As you must have guessed by now, ground-mounted solar systems are installed on the ground rather than a rooftop. Rooftop solar installations heavily depend on the specific roof for their performance and output. If there are issues like a non-south facing rooftop, lack of space, or obstructions to the path of sunlight then a ground-mounted solar module can be installed to get all the benefits of solar power. Other benefits of ground-mounted panels include easy maintenance & cleaning and configuration for maximum efficiency.
Profile sheet or Kirby solar structures are generally installed for industrial or commercial purposes. Profile sheet solar installations are the easiest to carry out and can be installed on simple sliding or groove-like structures attached to the profile sheet. These are also called rail-based mounting because of the rail like grooves that are fastened to the profile sheet. Profile sheets are generally installed with a slight slanting in factories or as roof sheds which helps the solar panels in getting maximum solar radiation if the sheet is south facing, thereby increasing its output.
Elevated solar structure places the solar panels at some height from the surface they are being installed on. The elevated solar structure is usually installed to either minimize losses due to shading or to maximize the utilization of roof space covered by the solar panels. Elevated structures usually allow solar owners to walk under the panels or use it for some other everyday purpose.
East-west solar racking sounds counterintuitive to the conventional practice of placing solar panels to face the south. Better utilization of space and more value of generated electricity are the two benefits that east-west solar racking offers. Since subsequent panels face opposite directions, more panels can be squeezed in a given area as compared to a south-facing array. The total power output of an east-west racked solar panel array is lesser than that of a south-facing one, but the power generation during the morning and evening hours is more in the east-west panels. Thus, for people who require lesser electricity during afternoons and more power in the morning and evening, east-west racking can be a good choice.
These are used for solar-powered parking lots and are an innovative application of elevated solar panels. Besides providing shade for parking vehicles, the carport solar structure often generates enough solar electricity to meet the demands of the parking area.
The material of the structure
The material of the structure not only affects the aesthetics but also decides how durable the solar power unit is going to be. Since most of the solar panels have a minimum guaranteed life of 25 years, one wouldn&#;t want their panels to be blown away during a storm or fall and break because of a poor quality mounting structure. The subpar quality of the material of solar structure can cause it to deteriorate quickly and thereby affect the efficiency and life of the panels that are installed on it.
Aluminum or Galvanized Iron?
The two most commonly used materials for manufacturing solar mounts are aluminum and galvanized iron. Galvanized iron(GI) is cheaper but is also the most prone to rusting and degradation. Aluminum, on the other hand, is light and sturdy but costs slightly more than GI. Aluminum is lighter and has a lower temperature coefficient and thereby lasts longer under direct sunlight and exposure to extreme weather conditions.
Hot-Dip or Pre-Galvanized?
Other than the base material, the user can choose from the type of coating that the structure has. The two common types of coating are pre-gal and hot-dip. Pre-gal is also called mill galvanizing and is usually thin and prone to degradation with scratches that expose the base material. Hot-dip galvanizing involves dipping the finished product into a zinc bath which leads to a thick coating of microns, whereas pre-gal offers a lesser thickness of microns. Hot-dip, thus, is more resistant to corrosion. Hot-dip is more expensive than pre-gal but should be the first choice for its long term benefits.
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