View Full Version : Pricing Aluminum Plates and Sheets
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Ari
For those who use, or intend to use, aluminum for their wet plate work.
Options here in Canada are expensive and limited. Even with expensive USPS shipping to Canada, sheet metal goods are a bargain if bought from a US supplier.
For wet plate work, the two that stand out are Lund Photographics and Main Trophy Supply. I've so far priced 4x5 plates in black aluminum.
Lund has the best cost-per-plate. For 100 4x5 plates, plus shipping, Lund has a slight edge, before (and after) shipping kicks in.
What's interesting about Main Trophy is that you can buy 12x24 sheets and they now sell plate shears, so you can cut your own plates anytime and in any size you want. More economical long-term, probably.
Looking further, 12-inch shears at metalwork suppliers are under $200, (about half the cost of Main Trophy's shears). For the long haul, if wet plate finally sticks with me, I may get shears and buy aluminum in larger sheets.
I know Garrett once mentioned he did this, but I'm unsure what cutting tool he used. I found these (in Canadian pesos): https://www.busybeetools.com/products/hand-shear-12in-cx-series.html
It's also possible to use a circular saw with a blade for aluminum, but I've only seen it, not tried it.
What do you guys do - or what do you plan on doing - for aluminum plates?
goamules
I use old paper cutters. They have a long arm made of cast metal, and a wooden base. Look for them at thrift stores and used office supply stores.
paulbarden
I rarely use aluminum trophy plate anymore, preferring to make Ambrotypes or negatives. However, the last time I bought trophy plate, I got it direct from Main Trophy Supply - they were the least expensive option I found (I'm surprised Lund pre-cut plates are comparable - are you sure??)
For cutting plates down to smaller sizes, I bought an old school guillotine style paper cutter. (like this one (https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly.net/image/product/sized/0d456e9a-fd1c-4e0c-b6c7-95be324fc5e7/vintage-guillotine-paper-cutter-5413?aspect=fit&width=640&height=640)) Its perfectly suited to cutting aluminum plates. I know several people who use one of these. Mine cost $35 on fleabay.
Ari
Thanks again, Paul and Garrett.
Paul, I priced 4x5 plates only. Larger sizes may be differently priced.
These are both 0.250 thick
Main Trophy - 108 4x5 plates, $80.68 or $0.747/sheet
Lund Photo - 100 4x5 plates, $69.32 or $0.693/sheet
Not a huge difference, a nickel per sheet, but it's there nonetheless.
Main would be less expensive if you buy 12x24 sheets and cut them yourself.
The Main price above includes $37.88 in cutting charges.
Marc_Andrew
I've been using Main Trophy for about 8 years. At first I had them cut the plates to size - 8x10, 5x7, 4x5, etc. After a while I started cutting my own using an old school Ingento paper cutter. Check your local Craigslist. Also, the aluminum plates are super easy to score with a utility knife and just snap. Very clean cuts. I've been using the .020 and .025 plates. I like the thicker for 8x10 and larger. Main Trophy's 12x24 sheets and cutting on your own are the most cost effective way to get your plates.
Marc
Ari
Marc, I think that's the way I'm gonna go eventually.
I ordered 100 4x5 plates from Lund, they'll serve as my learning plates.
If I get reasonably proficient after 100 plates, I'll start ordering in bulk.
Two23
Marc, I think that's the way I'm gonna go eventually.
I ordered 100 4x5 plates from Lund, they'll serve as my learning plates.
If I get reasonably proficient after 100 plates, I'll start ordering in bulk.
It took me about 40 to begin getting some consistency. I think you'll be fine.
Kent in SD
paulbarden
Marc, I think that's the way I'm gonna go eventually.
I ordered 100 4x5 plates from Lund, they'll serve as my learning plates.
If I get reasonably proficient after 100 plates, I'll start ordering in bulk.
About the trophy plate Lund sells: If they still ship the aluminum plate with the white backing, then you need to know something about using that specific material for making tintype. If you leave the developer on the plates longer than the minimum required, you will discover pale streaks going in one direction across (or up and down) the plate. For traditional home made developers, that would be about 20 seconds at the very most, and for the B&S developer, limit it to 30-40 seconds, max. It seems there is an interaction between the type of enamel used on those plates and the developer/collodion which can form unwanted marks in the collodion if the developer stays on the plate longer than the minimum necessary. Some of my early plates from 2017 have those marks on them. Its an issue that is easy to avoid, as long as you know how.
PS: the trophy plate that Lund sells is a better black than what Main Trophy sells for making tintypes. Its a subtle difference, but clearly visible when viewing the two kinds side by side.
Ari
Thanks, Kent.
Paul, thanks for letting us know.
As you've said elsewhere, sticking to a 15-second development time will help with technique and troubleshooting problems, and now we know it will help prevent streaking on white enamel-backed plates.
Found a nice 18-inch paper trimmer today on CL for only $25. Much less expensive than the hardware store or Main Trophy cutter.
You guys saved me a lot of money, thanks.
cuypers1807
About the trophy plate Lund sells: If they still ship the aluminum plate with the white backing, then you need to know something about using that specific material for making tintype. If you leave the developer on the plates longer than the minimum required, you will discover pale streaks going in one direction across (or up and down) the plate. For traditional home made developers, that would be about 20 seconds at the very most, and for the B&S developer, limit it to 30-40 seconds, max. It seems there is an interaction between the type of enamel used on those plates and the developer/collodion which can form unwanted marks in the collodion if the developer stays on the plate longer than the minimum necessary. Some of my early plates from 2017 have those marks on them. Its an issue that is easy to avoid, as long as you know how.
I don't think that is it. The glue from the plastic coating was leaving a residue that created patterns that were more obvious when plates were over developed. It was an easy fix to just wipe the plate with alcohol before pouring the collodion. It happens to both Lund and Main plates. For me maybe 1 out of every 25-30 plates have this problem.
paulbarden
I don't think that is it. The glue from the plastic coating was leaving a residue that created patterns that were more obvious when plates were over developed. It was an easy fix to just wipe the plate with alcohol before pouring the collodion. It happens to both Lund and Main plates. For me maybe 1 out of every 25-30 plates have this problem.
Thanks for that information, Joseph! I wasn’t aware that it could be avoided by wiping the plate with alcohol. Good to know.
Ari
The dip tank from Lerouge just arrived, it really looks quite nice and seems to be very well-made.
Glad I opted for something like this to remove the initial guesswork.
paulbarden
The dip tank from Lerouge just arrived, it really looks quite nice and seems to be very well-made.
Glad I opted for something like this to remove the initial guesswork.
I hope the fittings don't rust too quickly. A friend of mine says his rusted surprisingly fast.
Ari
The seller told me he updated his fittings, I hope that means it won't be troublesome.
Did your friend buy recently?
ghostcount
For more information, please visit Molybdenum Electrode.
I don't think that is it. The glue from the plastic coating was leaving a residue that created patterns that were more obvious when plates were over developed. It was an easy fix to just wipe the plate with alcohol before pouring the collodion. It happens to both Lund and Main plates. For me maybe 1 out of every 25-30 plates have this problem.
I found this to be true as well.
Two23
The dip tank from Lerouge just arrived, it really looks quite nice and seems to be very well-made.
Glad I opted for something like this to remove the initial guesswork.
Silver tank is something you want to be dependable.
Kent in SD
Two23
Found a nice 18-inch paper trimmer today on CL for only $25. Much less expensive than the hardware store or Main Trophy cutter.
You guys saved me a lot of money, thanks.
That's what forums are all about.:)
Kent in SD
Two23
I don't think that is it. The glue from the plastic coating was leaving a residue that created patterns that were more obvious when plates were over developed. It was an easy fix to just wipe the plate with alcohol before pouring the collodion. It happens to both Lund and Main plates. For me maybe 1 out of every 25-30 plates have this problem.
I think I've been seeing some this too. These tins from B&S.
Kent in SD
paulbarden
I think I've been seeing some this too. These tins from B&S.
Kent in SD
Ya gotta remember that "trophy plate" aluminum was never intended to be used for making tintypes, so there's no guarantee that the chemistry of any of the manufacturers will be compatible with the process 100% of the time. Nobody knows yet how "archival" tintypes made on trophy plate are going to be. That is an experiment in progress.
When and if you decide to pursue a more archival path, consider either japanning your own tins, or working on glass. Those materials have a long history and their archival properties are well known.
Tin Can
I see some are using Lucite or Plexiglas
Your thoughts?
paulbarden
I see some are using Lucite or Plexiglas
Your thoughts?
I've never used black plexi, but I know people who have (including Quinn, who likes the result a lot) and it seems to work well. But compared to almost all other media, its VERY expensive. I asked my local supplier to quote a price per 8x10 piece, and if I remember correctly, it was about $2.80 per 8x10. When I can make glass plates at $1.00 per piece, plexi seems rather expensive.
ghostcount
...
When and if you decide to pursue a more archival path, consider either japanning your own tins, or working on glass....
Glass plates are allergic to concrete. Many a glass plate in my darkroom suffered such a fate. ;)
Incidentally, when making albumen prints, broken glass plates in a jar were used to froth white eggs if one didn't have electricity and a blender. Also, improves your forearm tone.
Japanned plates have a certain blackness to it I find appealing, however, I am patiently challenge in making them.
Now how about some ruby glass backed by black velvet? :cool:
goamules
Ya gotta remember that "trophy plate" aluminum was never intended to be used for making tintypes, so there's no guarantee that the chemistry of any of the manufacturers will be compatible with the process 100% of the time. Nobody knows yet how "archival" tintypes made on trophy plate are going to be. That is an experiment in progress.
When and if you decide to pursue a more archival path, consider either japanning your own tins, or working on glass. Those materials have a long history and their archival properties are well known.
I've had an archival experiment going for about 8 years....I'll have to check the date. I made a plate on trophy plate, aluminum. I varnished it with traditional Sandarac. Then I put it on my front door, exposed to temp, weather, sun, rain, etc. It's been there to this day. I'll go take a picture of it....
Tin Can
Any ideas, thoughts on this? If you read down he made some plates.
Baking in Sun seems a good idea...
https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/ColdCureJapanning.html
paulbarden
Any ideas, thoughts on this? If you read down he made some plates.
Baking in Sun seems a good idea...
https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/ColdCureJapanning.html
I would stick with tried and true recipes from the period. Using spar varnish is an unknown. There's nothing wrong with using Asphaltum dissolved in mineral spirits, with a dash of Canada balsam added. You can bake plates 8x10 and smaller in a toaster oven.
Japan black delivers a MUCH darker black than trophy plate. Comparing the two side by side and the trophy plate looks dark gray!
goamules
Maybe a dash of paprika before going into the toaster?
Tin Can
I like Paul's answer
paulbarden
Maybe a dash of paprika before going into the toaster?
Cinnamon, if you don't mind.
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